6.Korea: Busan and Song Eun Hyung at Haeundae Beach

The flight from Jeju to Busan was short and easy. Busan was a big change from the easy-going attitude of Jeju. The city is huge and sits right on the sea. Ships fill the harbor, traffic rolls through its hills, and skyscrapers rise along the beach.

Discovering Busan's Beauty

That afternoon, I dropped my bags at my hotel room and headed to the rooftop pool. I wanted to enjoy the sunset and take in the stunning view of the city and surrounding landscape. The beach, a gentle crescent, bent towards the hotel. It was edged with rocky outcrops and had beautiful lighter sand with a smooth sea. Korean coastal pines lined the beach, accompanied by sculptures and decorative rocks. A boardwalk filled with runners and walkers buzzed with activity during the day. The city sits right on the beach, with a line of skyscrapers overlooking the water. This beautiful place combines new and shiny elements with a sense of history. The artistic use of nature throughout the city helps ground this busy place.

A Culinary Adventure

I stepped out for dinner that night, looking for something unique. Around the hotel, several fancy Korean beef restaurants caught my eye. I decided to give one a try. The menu was filled with pictures of marbled beef from select cows. The waitress brought a tray of banchan to the table, which included ice kimchi, a delicately flavored kimchi, crab covered in gochujang, anchovies in sesame oil, and a wonderful broth-based soup with greens and tofu.

When she came out to light the grill, she carried a tray of beef, king oyster mushrooms, and some veggies. She lit the grill in the center of the table and grilled everything to perfection right in front of me. The meal was huge, filling, and delicious. The beef was the star of the show, while the sides created a diverse and nutritious experience. Each item had a unique flavor, complementing each other and allowing my palate to reset.

Nighttime Stroll

After dinner, I took a long walk through the late-night district filled with restaurants, karaoke, and shops. This wide street was filled with people enjoying the beautiful night. It stretched several blocks and dead-ended into the beach. I continued my stroll along the beach. The nighttime beach had a different vibe. It was still filled with runners and walkers, but now more people gathered in groups, picnicking or enjoying conversations. Couples walked hand in hand, and buskers played at various stations along the beach.

Morning Practice on the Beach

I spent the next morning on the beach, ready to practice Song Eun Hyung outside with plenty of space to move. This master-level form of Han Mu Do is the final form created by Dojunim He-Young Kimm. He introduced this form at a seminar in Baton Rouge, LA. Shortly after, I visited the Kimms in their home in Suwanee, Georgia, where I had the chance to learn and work with him on this advanced form.

Before dinner, we headed downstairs to his private Dojang. The floor was taped with the shape of the Chinese character 木 (mù), meaning “tree.” He explained that the form represented the pine tree, Song Eun, his pen name. He opened the door to the outside and showed me the tall pine growing outside his house in Georgia that inspired him.

Practicing in the Sand

Practicing Song Eun Hyung on the beach was a challenge. I started by drawing the form pattern in the sand, creating a roadmap to work on my stances and movements. The sand shifted with every step, forcing me to slow down, ground my stances, and find my balance. I focused on the physical aspects of the form, thinking through the movements and stances, expanding beyond my hotel room. As I began to smooth out the movements, my breath followed, allowing me to develop a rhythm to this beautiful form.

The Benefits of Public Practice

Practicing martial arts forms in public places like a beach can be daunting, but it is beneficial for any martial artist. Two things happened as I moved. First, the physical lesson: sand challenges everything. There’s no faking the stances; every imbalance and hesitation shows itself.

Second, the mental lesson: practicing in public meant releasing my ego. To move freely and breathe fully, I had to stop worrying about what others might think. This allowed my brain to relax and focus on me.

The oceans connect the world, and being on the beach made me feel a little closer to home. The waves rolled in and out beside me, and the morning salty breeze was refreshing and comforting. The pine trees lining the beach provided a beautiful and inspiring backdrop for my practice. It felt like a dialogue between me, Han Mu Do, and nature itself. In Korea, the pine tree symbolizes strength, endurance, balance, and grace through all seasons. It bends but doesn’t break. It survives wind, snow, heat, and drought, always standing evergreen.

Haedong Yonggung Temple

I made my way to Haedong Yonggung Temple, one of Korea’s most beautiful coastal temples. Built on the cliffs of Gijang-gun, the temple overlooks the sea. Long stone steps wind up the hillside, adorned with colorful lanterns strung between statues and pines. It’s said to have been built in 1376. The constant sound of waves crashing against the rocks below mixes with the sounds of visitors exploring the temple, the jangle of coins tossed into wishing fountains, and the rustling of colorful paper decorations blowing in the coastal breeze.

This temple is stunning. A winding hilly path through the forest, lined with statues, leads you toward this temple by the sea. As you explore the temple, you’ll find large and small statues, beautifully colored buildings filled with art, and a timeless setting that allows you to connect with something deeper if you let it.

Skyline Luge Adventure

After exploring the temple, I strolled through the shops outside and made my way to the Busan Skyline Luge. This winding downhill mountain coaster overlooks one of the Lotte Theme parks, offering a view of the sea and surrounding area. A ski lift carried me up to the top for a quick safety briefing, and off I went on a cart down the track. With four different runs, this was a fun stop and a nice break from sightseeing. It felt like an important moment to just enjoy myself.

A Taste of Home

Afterward, I spotted an IKEA just down the road. I walked in hungry and headed straight for the cafeteria. A plate of Swedish meatballs, mashed potatoes, peas, cranberry sauce, and gravy was delicious. After nearly ten days of rice, kimchi, noodles, and temple food, this simple Western comfort food was a welcome change. It wasn’t just about the food; it was about the familiar.

Reflecting on My Journey

That evening, I walked a long loop around the city and up the beach. It was dark, and the pine trees stood silhouetted along the coast. I enjoyed Busan. It is a huge, bustling city with lots to explore, and I had really just gotten started when it was time to move on to my next adventure. I woke up the next morning to pouring rain that had moved in. I visited the first Starbucks in Korea, right on Haeundae Beach, got myself some coffee and breakfast, and hopped in a cab to Busan Station to head north for my next temple stay.